A Piece of Heaven on Papandayan Volcano

Volcano in Garut regency, West Java, is very disturbing my mind. Friends that have been there tell me that the beauty of the volcano, just like a heaven, it is make me so curious to visit Papandayan soon.

The panorama of Papandayan

Departing by public transport from  Kampung Rambutan Bus Station, Jakarta. I feel the atmosphere of the vacation or adventure had begun at the exit of the terminal. Hundreds of travelers with large carrier scattered in the stalls and on the sidewalk. They're willing to go to Papandayan like us, some of them wants to Mount Cikurai, there is also want to Mount Gede.

Using the bus, we left terminal Kampung Rambutan approximately on 11pm. Surprisingly, in this middle of the night, the bus we were riding has much effort to pass through the Cikampek toll road traffic jam. Even the bus has used the emergency road on the left side.  Finally, we arrived at the terminal Garut, at dawn. Then we headed to the mosque in Terminal area, for morning prayers. There is a moment that I really concern to, in the mosque. Hikers, or I call it tourists, dominates the room and the terrace of the mosque. After finished morning prayers, most of them did not immediately leave the mosque, but some are sleeping on the porch, or just sitting to get some rest, or grooming their packing. Some even cut vegetables and spices to prepare, perhaps in preparation for their camping supplies.

We were ahead of them to leave the terminal, using public transportation goes to the Cisurupan. We had to leave early to shop at Cisurupan. To have supplies consumption during hiking and camping later. That morning, although the sun has been greeted, but the air was still pretty cold. Until we had to wear warm clothes, and then we had breakfast here, raise energy to hike later.

Papandayan view, from Cisurupan village

Pickups, is the only option to continue the trip to the last terminal near the volcano. Together with the other travelers, we set out explore the narrow road, uphill and a lot of holes here and there.  Papandayan Volcano on the one side and on the other side of Mount Cikurai appeared calm and graceful. Once in a while, a group of children on the sidewalk shouted at us with the word “domba..domba ...”  For them, perhaps only viable sheep riding pickups. Very funny ... but we enjoyed it anyway.

View of Papandayan, from the starting point of hiking

Arrived at the last terminal near volcano, I saw many cars parked there. Parking space here was quite wide, and surrounded by stalls. I felt the cold air stung my skin that morning. I saw a few tents on one side of terminal land, maybe they arrived yesterday and it intends to stay here, and then start hiking today. Looking towards Papandayan, I saw control tower on the left and on the distance white smoke billowing move up, it must have been from the crater Papandayan. There is a passion feeling to arrive there soon.

While taking care of permits to enter the area Papandayan, I saw a few tents, among the trees. Men and women who sleep in the tents are still idle and relax, they might just woken up, they probably arrived here yesterday afternoon to begin the hiking this morning.

start to hike

We immediately started to walk across the road uphill, the road filled with white color stone. There were traces of asphalt there, it looks like the asphalt has been eroded by water when ever rain fall, and living chipped foundation consisting of white stones. My breath just start to wheezing, and legs begin to feel heavy, because the road is uphill, the road is ramps, but continues to climb. Some group in front and behind us seemed to suffer the same fate. We walked a bit sluggish. Already visible in front of the ridge was belching smoke, yes ... that's crater Papandayan, that in fact, no, not exactly on the peak of the volcano, but on a hill facing towards the parking area. So the view was enough to make us curious to soon get there.

Continue hiking

 

Get rest

Continue hiking, crossing the white rocks, which dominates the track to the crater Papandayan. Until we arrived at the side of the crater, we were looking for a comfortable place to just get rest and enjoy the crater. Despite the hot sun at the time, but the air is really cool, calm, almost no wind, so the smoke coming out of the earth was moving slowly and gracefully upwards. A loud hissing sound heard, like the sound of a pot of boiling water in our homes. Sulfur smelt light, so we did not need to wear a mask.

 

At the lips of the crater

The crater of Papandayan Volcano

Staring at the crater of the lips, feeling light sulfur aroma, listening to loud hissing sound coming out of the crater due to the heat of the magma from the earth, feel the sunbathe and cool air of Papandayan. So, what a favors we should be thankful?, Thanks God ... The weather today is very nice, we really enjoyed and we feel at home for a long time here.

Black forest and Cantingan woods at background

We woke up, and hike, sweat and fast breathe are ours. “Pondok Selada” Camping Ground was our goal. Keep hiking until it finds a slightly sloping path, and we saw large areas, full of white stone and soil. Stands above the trees with black trunks and branches, no leaves, people call it dead forest. There is also nicknamed the Black forest. It was formed by the eruption in 2003. The very hot cloud, that burst out of the crater Papandayan, causing all life here dead. Until now, the area affected by the hot cloud or hot air is not yet recovered to normal. In contrast to Merapi volcano, which also I have ever visited, two years after the eruption, the area around Merapi is back green.

 

Telungatus at black forest

Do not asked how wonderful paintings of this nature ... No wonder my friends said, visit papandayan, and you will found a piece of heaven there. And now, my other friend who hike with me today, told me “don’t worry brother”, tomorrow we will found another cooler paradise ”Tegal Alun”. I was stunned, what a beauty again…, that I will found here in Papandayan?

In the middle of black forest

Continue to walk through the “black forest”. Woods to die, stems and twigs scattered on the ground, into charcoal, burnt black. Up to the edge of the dead forest, we crossed the overgrown forest endemic plants, trees of “Cantingan”. Branches are a lot, the leaves are small and dense, so it looks lush. Soon “Tegal Alun” has been in front of the eye. Is an open area that is quite extensive, near sources of water, it is ideal to set up a tent. Unfortunately tents have been crowd this area, we then, find a place a little far outside the camping ground.

Two tents

Two tents covered by flying sheet, among Cantingan trees, quite ideal. Then we roll the mat, preparing Trangia (cooking tools), and vegetables and spices. Now is time to cook for lunch, as well as preparations for dinner tonight and breakfast tomorrow morning, before climbing  to Tegal Alun.

to prepare dinner

By the time, the sky grows to dark. And once again the feast. That night we failed to make a bonfire, probably because there is no branch that is completely dry, all wet due to the rain the previous day. And we turned on the flashlight all night for lighting. The night air is very sunny, no clouds that block the sky, the stars scattered filling the sky, beautiful, very beautiful ... we will not meet the starry night sky like this in Jakarta. Stars, crowded blinking, as if they were talking to each other, it’s a magnificent night ...

two tents at night

12 o'clock at night we just go to sleep, go to tent, and come inside the sleeping bag. We can’t hold the cold outside anymore, although our jacket doubled, wear a head covering, as well as gloved hands. Fingers stiff to be moved, even to use the camera. At 3 am, I woke up and it was hard to sleep well, cold still stung despite being wrapped in a sleeping bag. That morning we were out of the tent when the sun was bright greeting, and cold still make the body feel stiff.

creeping the rocky dry river

We packed up and bring food for breakfast later in Tegal Alun, we don’t bring the tents, and other supplies, so we don’t overburden when we climb to the Tegal Alun. I saw the group of other climbers have also been packed up, and some have already left the Pondok Selada next to another paradise, Tegal Alun. All the group moving toward the black forest, to further climb toward Tegal Alun. But we chose another path, the extreme one, after hiking thru the cantingan trees, we continue to climb following the rocky dry river, go upward, and creeping slowly. When I stop to get some rest, and looking down, wow ... Pondok Selada looks so beautiful, decorated by colorful tents scattered there.

Pondok Selada camping ground

Edelweis valley

We continue to climb rocky dry river, and was lucky not raining. Imagine if it rains, of course the flood will sweep us. Finally we reached the valley that so vast. In the left and his right is a green hill with trees cantingan. While the bottom of the valley, filled with edelweiss, the pretty perennial flowers. Plants that are included in the category "endangered species" and of course protected by the state. We continued walking through the valley following the huge edelweiss. Until arrived at the end of the valley and climbing the hill overgrown by Cantingan. Behind this hill Tegal Alun located. When arrived at highest land, I saw the vast plain overthere, and smoke as a background from the crater Papandayan, oh that is the Black Forest ...

Black Forest or Dead Forest

We turn left and down the hill through the woods cantingan. Till the edge of the forest, suddenly wide meadows spread in front of us, with some huge edelweiss there on, and a puddle of water on the other like a calm lake with clear water. The atmosphere is quite a contrast from the dense forests, moist and dark, suddenly turned into a bright world, with landscapes that are green, clean, beautiful ... very amazing.

A small lake

Meadows

Sea of edelweis

We continue walking across the meadows, I saw out there clump of green, surely it edelweiss, that is Tegal Alun, the sea of edelweiss, so  beautiful so amazing ... We kept coming, and towards the edge of the forest to have shelter and prepare breakfast, or I prefer to say it was half lunch, while looking at the edelweiss ocean. I absolutely agree with my friends, that it is the next heaven following the black forest. Thousands edelweiss hopefully remain immortal, and no one bothered him. So that all who visit here, can enjoy its beauty.

The sun is already above the head when we left Tegal Alun. We walking through the woods Cantingan and continue down the valley toward the black forest. Be witnessed over a stretch of the dead jungle here. Completely different nuance, than when we crossed yesterday. The dish of the scenery was different. Arriving in the middle of the black forest, surrounded by dry trees, without leaves, stems stay charred black, gives a different sensation. Just like not in Indonesia, but surely, this is my beautiful Indonesia. Once again we linger here, and take photos of this special moment until we feel satisfied.

Thru the black forest

Sceenary of black forest

Black forest and the mountain behind

 That afternoon, we returned to Pondok Selada camping ground, to dismantle the tents and packing. Get ready to go back to Jakarta, to think about the next trip. Thinking of the other beautiful Indonesia, we choose to visit ...