Floating Market at Martapura River, South Kalimantan, Indonesia

Floating Market, Lok Baintan, Martapura, South Kalimantan, Indonesia

Martapura, a city in South Kalimantan have long been famous with pearl. Long before Indonesia feverish by gemstones, Martapura has own specific market that sells gemstones. But this trip is not a story about the gemstones. It was a trip down the river Martapura towards the legendary Floating Market. There since the ancestor’s era, continue to exist and survive to this day.

Houses along the river, aerial photo

Smoke from burning fields, or burnt

The scent of the river already smells since before landing in Banjarmasin airport. Seeing from behind the window of a low-flying plane ahead of landing, look down there, rows of houses along the wide rivers. And at the other side far beyond the heart of the island smoke seen rising from several points. Forest fire, or burned. Sad to see, very clear in front of the eyes, polluters, causing low visibility, global warming culprit, that is ehat we read on newspapers. But, every day still exhibited to thousands of pairs of eyes, which landed in Banjarmasin.

Masjid, at the side of Martapura river

 Martapura river, sun rise

Martapura river, sun rise

After morning prayers, we (me and two friends), had to leave the hotel in Banjarmasin, using a taxi that have been booked the night before, headed "under the bridge". It was a term used by taxi driver, here boats waiting for us, and will sail upstream. The morning was still dark, when the boat begins to sail.  The old boat sail slowly against the flow of the river, not just an old boat, the engine seems too old. Loud sound of the engine and exhaust rhythms that explode one by one indicating that the boat cannot be forced to sail fast, perhaps because the boat is too big. And, it is against the flow of the river. So in the dark of the morning we enjoyed the trip using old boats sail quietly. Sometimes a small motorized boat passed us easily, leaving waves made our boat a little shaking.

small boat easily passed us

I decided to move to the roof of the boat and took a position at the front. Wonderful, luckily drove slowly, from up here we can enjoy the scenery along the river widely. The sky was getting light, sound of moslem reading verses of the Quran add the perfection of the morning. Mesjid scattered along the side of the river, on left and right. Tower or dome of the mosque is the most dominant sights. It is said that Martapura indeed is an Islamic religious city.

The sky grew brighter by phosphorescence sun started to rise on the horizon, the shades of red or purple sky was very beautiful. I was ready with a camera, waiting for the right moment.

Morning activities at Martapura river

People started activities on the river, behind their homes, or in front of their respective houses. Yes, I make sure the front of the house, their home overlooking the river. I see it is the terrace of the house, not the backyard. They draw water using a bucket tied to a rope, thrown down and then pulled up after the bucket filled with water, and so on. There are also down to the river using the stairs so that half of the body submerged in water, sat on the stairs and shower. Some others makes floating board, a litle bit higher than the surface of the river, so no need to draw water by the use of a rope, because now easy to draw water from the river. They shower, or just take wudlu, or wash. The one who bath, wrapped herself with gloves and used soap to clean the body.

Houses along the Martapura river

rumah di tepi sungai Martapura

Once again, I’m feeling lucky, this boat can’t speeding, so I'm more freely photographing life that morning. How houses in rows, tightly along the edge of the river, like a row of houses at most of the road in Java. Shops, schools, stalls, even the election campaign banner overlooking the river. How the river here, just like a road in the land of Java, even more than that. The river is everything.

Traffic signs at Martapura river

I saw, amazed, and smiling, while photographing signs of river traffic. Just like on the road in the cities. There are ban on stop signs, danger signs, signs of the river crossing, etc. The sign were made of square-shaped board, the size is quite large and is supported by wood embedded to the bottom of the river.  

Floating market

Lok Baintan Port, Martapura river

It has been more than half an hour's boat drove, until we finally saw a bunch of boats, colorful, right side of the river, yes... that is the floating market that we were looking for, near Lok Baintan Port. Small boats carry a wide variety of crops, various vegetables, bananas, oranges, mangoes, etc.  Also day to day needs such as boiled noodles and eggs. Some are selling cakes and rice packets for breakfast. The crowd is nice. Some boats come join, small boats was controlled with a paddle in order to remain in place, not drifting. Women were so skillfully controlling the boat. Yes, most them are women, few men participating in the activity of this floating market. I also saw students, they are so skilled paddle boats penetrate and passing floating market.

Offer a lunch packet

Transaction

students

on a small boat, with one of them

Some foreign tourists were among the din of the market, they are the same as we rented a boat from Bajarmasin. They come in early from us. Local tourists are also many who came after our arrival. A small boat drove by a woman came up to us, offering fruit and pastries. And she also offered us to join in his boat, saw firsthand how they transact.  Of course we take this chance. One of us down into the boat, and then away from our boat, now they are in the middle of the floating market. 

tourist

torist and the merchant

Floating market, Lok Baintan

Floating Market, Lok Baintan

Floating market,  Lok Baintan

It was already noon, and the crowd of the boats at Lok Baintan port now began to diminish. We docked to a stall who sells Soto Banjar (soup of Banjar). Soto Banjar, is specific from Banjar, with special recipe. In the stall, the food cooked directly by the Banjar. And it seems, so delicious..., according to the aroma we smelt. the spices was felt on the tongue. Finally I enjoy the original dishes of Banjar, cooked by the Banjar people.  

Telungatus, Otw go home

Finally, we have to leave the Lok Baintan, leaving the crowd of the floating market, the local tradition since the ancestors era. Traditions that coloring the culture of Martapura. The story has worldwide. Will this tradition be able to survive amid the rapid capitalist pressure that never loses greed for thickening   pocket? I Have No Idea ...

Eagle, above Martapura river

The surface of the river evaporated

Shop over looking the river

paddy milling

Our boat getting away, the scenery along the coast of the river we passed this morning, is now seen more clearly, because the sun was hanging over us. Houses look good, sturdy, and well-maintained. There is also a concern, houses look old and fragile. Intersections with signs, the forests are still intact, but I have no idea to the heart of the jungle.  The sky is not so bright, perhaps because of closed thin smoke from forest fires, or deliberately burned. The surface of the river also evaporates responded to the hot sun. We also found freshwater fish farming cages spread along the side of the river.

River gave life, forming a tradition, and becomes culture. We wish you all coastal residents Martapura river, a prosperous future. Keep that beautiful ancestral tradition. Your story has worldwide. We are proud to our Indonesia, beautiful Indonesia ...

telungatus is me