Muaro Jambi (The Largest BuddhistTemple Complex in Asia) - part 2

Tinggi Temple, Muaro Jambi

Back on bike, towards Tinggi Temple (Tinggi means high), located east side of Gumpung Temple, not far, approximately 300 meters away. There is a large tree in the yard, making the landscape more exotic. The height position  of the surface of land at Tinggi Temple area  is approximately one meter higher than the surrounding ground level, and bounded by a fence made of red brick (like on Gumpung Temple), so the ground outside the fence is lower than the surface of the ground in the fencing. It’s different with Gumpung Temple, the ground outside and inside is relatively the same.

Tinggi temple occupies an area of 2.92 hectares. There is one main building called Tinggi Temple, and there are six support buildings. Tinggi temple was restored in 1980 – 1982 so that we can enjoy the form today. The main building or what is known as Tinggi Temple has an area of 16 X 16 square meters, with a height of 7.6 meters. Meaning that the highest Temple among the others. The other buildings spread around  Tinggi Temple. There is a fairly large supporting building, located on the north side, the bottom of the building or the foundation looks so clear and strong, but at the top just stay composed of red brick ruins mounting, did not show a clear form. There is also a stupa-shaped building as high as adults, located next to the left and right of Tinggi Temple, but these two stupa have different design, which is a round shape like a stupa at Borobudur, and the other shaped just like box and a little fatter and taller.

Tinggi Temple, Muaro Jambi

 

When I arrived at Tinggi Temple, a lot of people here, more than the one I met at Gumpung Temple, they even climb up to the top of the temple. I wonder why there is no prohibition stepped temple?, Whereas the red brick is fragile, not as strong as stone as what we may see at Borobudur Temple. Besides, the age of the Temple that considered more than 1000 years certainly increased the vulnerability. Mostly they just look around and take pictures, and some have only resting and lie on the grass at backyard of the Temple. The atmosphere is cozy, shaded by large trees outside the fence. Large trees were part of the forest that surrounds the complex of Muaro Jambi Temple.

Tinggi Temple and little Stupa

Tinggi Temple, Muaro Jambi

 

I cannot wait until the Temple is empty, because they come and go. Perhaps because it is clearly Tinggi Temple shape is more beautiful, more varied, not as rigid as Gumpung Temple. So it has more attraction for visitors. I immediately took position and photographing Tinggi Temple from various angles, until I was satisfied. I won’t forget the support Temple, the one that widest and mounting pile of red bricks.   Then I shifted towards the north, towards the Tinggi Temple 1 that no longer high (Tinggi).

There is no detailed explanation about Tinggi Temple 1. How wide the main building, ancillary buildings, total area of its area, when restored, and so forth. Only informed that the results of the research,  based on the shape of red brick on the inside, concluded that this temple has experienced expansion, just like Tinggi Temple at its side. I think the height of Tinggi Temple 1 is slightly higher than adults, the size of the area is less than Tinggi Temple, and the shape is simple, a rectangular shape. There is a little building in front and form the stairs as the entrance to the Temple buildings.  I found another form of building, even smaller, at the east side of the main building, which is now remaining base, covering a small area. As well as another one adjacent to the east, smaller, rectangular, who now even just a sort of fence as high as approximately 20 cm. and inside the fence filled with sand, no floor of red brick.



Tinggi 1 Temple, Muaro Jambi

Broken Brick at Tinggi Temple 1

This temple is not so high, and there is ladder at eastern side, which up to the upper surface of the temple, causing people who visit tend to climb up to the top of the temple, and step on the floor or the top of the temple. As I see it this time. I am concerned about the situation, once again because of this red brick is fragile, not as strong as stone.  And sure enough, I found a red brick shards at one end of the ladder, lying on the ground. Seeing the former fracture, and fragments, obviously just occurred. I imagine what just happened, someone who is not careful when up or down the stairs, causing the red brick broke and fell, and he ignored it. How can we possibly have this bad attitude towards heritage?. I picked up pieces of red brick, and put it again in position, he would fall again if anyone stepped on or nudged, it may even be broken again into smaller pieces. Hopefully it does not happen.

 

Back on bike, towards Batu Kembar Temple or “the Twin Stone Temple”.  At an intersection, mounted signposts, in front of two empty stalls, maybe it stalls abandoned. To the left there is the Astano Temple, is 1.1 km away. Sialang Temple, is 1.8 km away. Pondok Duren, a plantation site about 800 meters. I have not enough time to visit all places, I decided to opt into the right direction, written on signposts, there is a twin temple stone within 232 meters, and an ancient canal within 800 meters. Down the road that has been cemented width of approximately 1.5 meters. Quite comfortable, if I have enough time, I prefer to walk.

OTW Batu Kembar Temple

Batu Kembar Temple, Muaro Jambi

 

Batu Kembar temples surrounded by canals that still looks firm, but there was no water that flooded it. Also there is barbed wire. On inner side of the canal looks red brick mixed with soil, seems like this canal walls made of red brick. I'm look around the temple site with cycling, and stopped in front of the entrance to the Twin Temple Stone. I call the entrance because there is space width of approximately 1 meter that not hindered by barbed wire. This is the Batu Kembar Temple, named so perhaps because there are three buildings that looks almost the same, and there is one more brick ruins that have no longer visible shape. Also there is the small size floor or base that likely there is a building on it. In general, this temple is much simpler form than the two temples that have been seen before. Not too high, just a square, it has narrowed section so as to form a pyramid, plus the additional building steps. Brick color was already dark and dull. But the red brick fence that surrounds it still looks sturdy and nice shape.

The sun is already leaning towards the west, the air was hot and humid, my little towel has been too wet  as sweat continued to pour out of my body. Lucky me, in front of the entrance of Batu Kembar Temple, there are two stalls, or rather I call the plot. Small wooden rods support the roof is made of plastic just to shelter from sun and rain. It is disharmony with the temple building. In general plot is of course disturbing the aesthetic of the site. But I am grateful because I can enjoy the fresh squeezed sugarcane juice plus ice, so freshening. I ordered another glass, enough to overcome thirst.

The Management of  Muaro Jambi temple is need to think about the needs of visitors. Anyone who is cycling, or walk up here, would be tired and thirsty. Because of the distance is quite far, and the air is hot and humid. If there are resting places and representative stalls, with a design that harmoniously to the surrounding environment, it will certainly add to the beauty, plus provide comfort for visitors. In addition of course, to benefit the local communities who manage the stalls.

Ancient Canal, Muaro Jambi

 

Satisfied enjoy the juice of sugar cane, I continued to walk towards the ancient canal which passes not far from this stall. I left the bike, the stall keeper said safe. Approximately 100 meters eastward stall, I found the canal, there is a  staircase made of wood down the slopes of the canal, about 4 meters deep. Does not look like a canal or artificial river, canal walls filled with shrubs and trees, and the canal itself filled with water hyacinths. I can’t see any water flow there. Canal width may be about 7 or 8 meters. I think it's spectacular. At that time, with a simple technology, humans have thought to build a canal that is sufficiently deep and wide. I don’t know how many kilometers in length, and how long were made, and how much manpower to do it. As a comparison, the east flood canal in Jakarta, had been talked, plan, and work it about many years ago, newly accomplished in the era of Jokowi, and even then with the help of today's technology, using heavy equipment etc. and at a cost that is fantastic. Thus, the temple complex of Muaro Jambi which covers more than 200 square kilometers, is supported by canals, is a remarkable achievement of this nation.

A bit longer I dwell here, contemplate and imagine the atmosphere of the past, the boats crossing the canal, stop, someone got off the boat up the canal wall and towards the temple to worship, how calm…. I immediately left the canal, take a bike, and do not forget to pay fresh sugarcane juice. I stopped briefly, and photographing signs and information boards installed in front of the Kembar Batu Temple. Clearly these two objects unkempt, dull, white base color was even blackened. And information boards made of white tarpaulin, even had chipped on top of it. Sad to see… Especially if what stall keeper said is true, many foreign tourists who visit here. What about the minds of the tourists there?, Of this nation who are not good at taking care of. In fact, we insist on asking Unesco, making this Muaro Jambi Temple Complex as a world cultural heritage.

Prajnaparamita statue

Makara

official, explain about the site plan

ceramics from ancient China

 

 Back to bike again, leave Kembar Batu Temple toward the Museum, a place where ancient goods and stuffs are kept, discovered during the excavation of the temples. This museum was cramped by children, teenagers and mothers who mixed together. They are cool to listen to museum officials. Middle-aged man is seriously tells the history of the temple of Muaro Jambi, pointing to a large map, a site plan of the temple complex. I am more focused to see the various relics are exhibited. There were glassware, pottery and ceramics are made from patterned ancient Chinese, who are no longer perfect. There were Makara, and Arca, including the statue of Prajnaparamita which has no head. Gadjah Arca. Arca Gadjah Singha, are no longer intact, was found in Gedong II. Some Padmasana (holder Arca). Some small stone pieces, from white andesite stone, it appears there beside ornament. There is a stone pedestal, and Padmasana stone shaped like a stone pedestal but with a much larger size. Everything is made of andesite stone, but there are also Padmasana made of brick.

I am interested in some Padma stone, shaped like a mortar or in Java as a place to pound rice that made of wood. Padma stone is found in Gedong I in 1998. At the outer edge there is a carving or sculpture petal lotus flower (lotus). It turns out this thing is not as rice pestle, as I'd thought. Based on the information available, the object is associated with Buddhist ritual activities.

Little Stupa

 

In front of the museum, there are 6 pieces small stupa, which is made of brick, neatly arranged, three stupas on the left and the rest on the right. Some bigger stupas are arranged in a row following the BRC fence surrounding a land, which is still in the process of excavation. This land is protected by pavilion building, this may important findings but is still in the research process, so it should be fenced to avoid damage to the site.

 

An inscription signed by President Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono, displayed in front of the museum. Inscription made of black granite, it is in order to officially launch the establishment of Muara Jambi Temple Complex, as an integrated tourism area of history, on 22 September 2011.

Muaro Jambi, become more important after the findings and the historical study by experts. Excavation and research continues to be done may be able to change our understanding of history of the archipelago. To this day the experts from UI (University of Indonesia) which has been researching the area Muaro Jambi Temple COmplex, believes that this is where the first center of Srivijaya Kingdom.

While other studies in the coastal river of Musi, also believes that the first center of Srivijaya kingdom was there.

Based on historical records, the news from the Arab country, stating that the center of the Kingdom of Srivijaya was in Kampar river estuary, near the Muara Takus, Riau Province, Sumatera, Indonesia. Inscription of Kedukan Bukit also indicate this.

Researcher from Europe even more extreme, stating that the center of the Kingdom of Srivijaya was in Thailand, precisely in Ch'aiya. The reason is there are more prevalent in the ancient relics compare to the Palembang. Also because of the similarity of a name of a hill that is sivic'ai, phonetically similar to Sriwijaya. Thailand is so fierce this claim, to the extent that the name of the new International Airport in Bankok named Swarnabhumi, while we understand Swarnabhumi is another name of mainland Sumatra formerly known as Sriwijaya.

Other expert say that the center of the kingdom of Srivijaya was originally on the east coast of Malaysia. Do Malaysia Will follow Thailand ? Claiming that Sriwijaya Kingdom is in Malaysia ? not enough batik, wayang, Pendet and reog are in the claims…

Hopefully, historians and archaeologists are active in researching heritage sites of Srivijaya Kingdom. So we were able to prove to the world, Srivijaya was Archipelago, is Indonesia. The founders of this Nation have made historical grandeur of Srivijaya and Majapahit as a reference of the Unitary of the Republic of Indonesia.



Muaro Jambi (The Largest Buddhist Temple Complex in Asia) - part 1

Muaro Jambi Temple Complex, Sumatera, Indonesia

Gumpung Temple, Muaro Jambi (google earth)

Here is the largest Buddhist Temple complex in Asia.  The total area is approximately 260 square kilometers. It is much broader than in the world's largest Buddhist Temple, Borobudur Temple at Magelang, city, Central Java, Indonesia. Muaro Jambi Temple complex lay parallel to the river Batanghari. Historians associated this Buddhist Temple to Srivijaya Empire. Some archeologist mentions that here is the location of the center of Sriwijaya Empire,   while other experts say this is a relic of the ancient Malay kingdom.

Gumpung Temple, Muaro Jambi

 

Gumpung Temple, Muaro Jambi

You, who love traveling, would be familiar with the name of Muaro Jambi Temple. And for the travelers visiting this Temple complex is a must for the cultural heritage of this archipelago. Muaro Jambi is still a mystery, and continues to be a matter of study by historians and archeologist. Muaro Jambi Temple is unique. Most of us, if imagined an ancient Temple, then reflected ancient buildings made of stone structure, black, large, and artistic. As well as Borobudur Temple, Prambanan Temple, Singosari Temple or other Temples that are scattered in the Land Java. That once we learned during school.

Gumpung Temple, Muaro Jambi

Gumpung Temple, Muaro Jambi

Muaro Jambi Temple, first reported by FC Crooke, a naval officer in UK. When he came to this area, he saw the ruins of the building and found the statue depicting Buddha statue. While Gumpung Temple, one of the Temple at the complex of Muaro Jambi Temple, called in 1937 in a report by FM Schnitger, a Dutchman. He added that the names of the new Temple are Temple of Gumpung, Tinggi, Bukit Perak, Gudang Garem, Gedong I and II. Schenitger is the first to connect the enshrinement of Muaro Jambi with the Malay kingdoms (Mo-Lo-Yeu). As mentioned in Chinese texts from XVII century. While the results of research conducted by the Ministry of Education and Culture in 1954, states that the region is linked to the ancient Sriwijaya kingdom. Researchers from the University of Indonesia even believe this is where the first center of Srivijaya kingdom.

Gumpung Temple, Muaro Jambi

Temples in Muaro Jambi, entirely built with red brick structure, leaving a few statues called Makara, and there is no relief on the walls. The shape seems rigid, most of them just like a cube-shaped box, and almost entirely made of red brick.

Unfortunately I only had 2 hours to stay on location, because my flight schedule to Jakarta is tight. So, I only visit some of them.

Muaro Jambi Temple is just 26 km from the city of Jambi, taken less than one hour by car. Muaro Jambi ­­­­­­­­is the name of the village, where the temple complex is located. And the other temples located at Kemingking Dalam village and also at Danau Lamo (lake of lamo)  – lamo is old. They are located not far from the river Batanghari. That is the typical of ancient kingdoms in the archipelago, always close to the river or the sea, because the waterway is the main transportation lines.

Banner of Festival

After driving thru the bridge that crossing the wide Batang Hari river, I saw a lot of banners reading FCMJ, Indar my friend explained, it stands for Festival Candi Muaro Jambi (Muaro Jambi Temple Festival), which will be held tomorrow,  Sunday. Waw, certainly tomorrow will be crowded at all… I thought. Even now already busy and full of people I think, because certainly need preparation by the organizers and participants of the festival. "The activities are exhibitions, fairs and local arts performances", Indar added. And today is Saturday, a day off, certainly many people take their vacation to visit the temple.

Banners continued to appear every few meters, and the closer the distance when the car turn to the right, entering a relatively narrow road, to the location of  Muaro Jambi Temple complex. And sure enough, when entering the parking area is quite spacious, and a lot of cars parked there.

I rushed down, and walk follows the paved road which width of the road is approximately 2 meters. Then headed to the check point and pay entrance ticket. Only 10 thousand rupiah (less than 1 USD), including car parking fees, very cheap. Near the check point, towards the location of the temple, standing houses, they sell various goods and trinkets as souvenirs, there are also food stalls. I see in front of houses lined up dozens or even hundreds of bicycles, young children offers me bicycle rental, "10 thousand Pak, the location is quite far, the distance between the temple up to 2 km," he said. “Oh yes, this is good”, I said, and I take the bike and pay rent directly in front.

Since the temple complex open to public, it has brought blessing for the local people. That should have been the tourism industry, bringing direct economic benefits for the local people. Stalls, souvenir shop and bicycle rental help and facilitate visitors, as well as benefit the people who rely on the transaction.

Gumpung Tempel, Muaro Jambi

I kept on biking, until arrived at a large area, I see contrasting scenery, dominating by red color. An object, or rather the building, like a cube in the middle of the vast land, surrounded by a short fence, made of red brick, but a fence that also composed of brick is no longer red in color, a little black and dull. I immediately parked my bike near it, and prepare my camera. This is Gumpung Temple, which is the largest among the others. There are few visitors to be near the temple, I waited until they went, I saw a look around. Apparently, a lot of cars parked here, sad to see it, too close to the temple, this location should be sterilized from motor vehicles. I also saw a lot of tents, seemed newly established due to the Festival which will be held tomorrow. Also some stage, all located within the area of ​​the temple site, some stalls are also there. People passing by, busy with tents and a stage, crowded at all.

stalls and bicycle rental

Tent and bicycle rental

If this festival is just an exhibition of some products, and art performances which tend to make a crowd and party, I think the venue is should not at this sacred place. Besides, because I do not think this is not fit venue, the presence of people who are too many would have potency to damage the site, or at least this festive will leave the trash.

At outer fence of Gumpung Temple

 

Finally, people walk away from Gumpung Temple. I immediately approached and photographed from various angles. The height of Gumpung Temple is approximately 3 times adults man. Simple shape, there is an additional form of stairs at the front of the building, at the end of the stairs to the left there is Makara, the Statue of guard, the right side should also Makara, but is now housed in the Museum, which is located not far from the location of the Gumpung Temple. The size of the area of Gumpung is about 17.9 m X 17.3 m, facing towards the east. In front of the temple, or eastern side of the building there are also scars which is now only a part of the base and the floor alone, covering an area of 9.85 m X 9.75 m. and there are two holes in the middle and distance between the two holes is about  two meters, parallel  to Gumpung Temple. It seems that the hole is like a base of wood, or pile foundation. Perhaps, when the building was complete, there is no brick structure which formed a building, but only a sort of pavilion buildings with wooden structures.

Makara at Gumpung Temple

 

 (About Makara, is a guard placed at the front entrance of the temple. In the mythology illustrate mixed elements such as Garuda animals, elephants, fish and snakes. In addition to the  Gumpung Temple, Makara is also found in Candi Kedaton, 2011. With a little different, is an illustration of an animal mythology that lives in water, which has the characteristic with a trunk and tusks that comes out of the lower jaw. The shape of this kind is often referred to as Gajahmina. Physically these traits disguised as a decorative pattern flora like tendrils and leaves. Makara at the gate of Kedaton temple complex, has floral vaguely on the trunk and tusks. Other Ornamental is dragon engraved on the inside of the mouth and the other Makara has sculptured monkey. The interesting one from Makara gate of Kedaton temple complex is an carved inscriptions written in ancient Javanese letters  “Kadiri kuadrat”  read as "mpu paramursita kusuma")

 Gumpung temple has a large yard, and is surrounded by a fence which is made of red brick. Beyond the fence is an empty land or yard, and in the yard there is a kind of space that now remain fence only. Next to the south, there is a second building that now just left floor mat.  Then there is a red brick fence again, the position surrounding the entire complex of building Gumpung Temple complex. The outer edge of this vast land is about 150 m X 155 m, forming a square. The lowest fence is about the knees of adults, and width of the fence is approximately 60 cm. while the corner section is much higher and wider, those other parts that form a kind of ladder.

black Stone

 

There is one thing in this Gumpung temple that very interesting, at one corner, precisely on the north front (east), there is a black stone with a size large enough, tucked between red brick structure. At first glance it is not visible, as it forms the elbow, and the color is dull, so matching to the color of red bricks that are already blackened and dull. But if the stone is carefully observed, it would attract attention and make us wonder why black stone tuck there?, Let alone in the corner, thus forming the elbow, and is located at the bottom. It seemed this was not accidental, but deliberately put there and purposeful. The whole structure of the building is made of red brick, just makara made of stone. Unfortunately there is no explanation of this fact. I do not find the discussion on this matter from various books I read, nor from information spread across the internet.

At eastern part, right in front of the temple there is a building of gate, which is now remain the basic structure. And in front of it - at east direction - there is an entrance or gate, across the inner and outer fences, made of red brick structure form a staircase, climbing and descending the red brick wall or fence leading to the inside. At the left and right side was also formed red brick structure forming to the left and to the right.

Based on information contained in the board which is placed in front of the temple, it is known that inscriptions of gold had discovered in the Gumpung Temple. From this inscription allegedly Gumpung Temple was built between 9-10 AD. And associated with Buddhism. Prajnaparamita statue is also found here, and this is strengthening the allegation that the temple is associated with Buddhism.

(Arca Prajnaparamita found in East Java associated with Ken Dedes, the wife of Ken Arok, the founder of the kingdom of Singosari).

There is another thing that makes me sad, a lot of rubbish thrown away by visitors. There is even a used plastic drinking water with a straw is placed just above the red brick, temple floor. I picked it up and carry it until I found the trash. But, it’s hard to find the trash here. Something that must be thinks about by the management of the temple.

In excavation process

In  excavation process

 

On the north side, outside the Gumpung Temple area, I see there are sites that seemed to be in the process of excavation, the area is quite wide and bounded by a barbed wire fence. There is no information boards installed there, it looks like the site has long been explored and didn’t continued. Bricks from excavations those still intact are stacked at north side. There is a quite long trench as an impact of excavations processes, from north to south, is approximately as deep as 1-2 meters. I see red brick foundation trench at west side, next to it, red brick structure revealed. Just like a base of the building, , the shape is no longer straight, curved down as if it would hold weight on it. Crumbling bricks stacked on one side. Above the curved down bricks, soil and bricks mixed and shattered into small pieces. Can you imagine how hard the archeologists reconstruct the temples that have been fought for hundreds of years buried in the ground and destroyed?. Hopefully visitors will be able to take care of everything inside the complex, and do not damage these temples.

Next to read : Muaro Jambi (The Largest Temple Complex in Asia) - part 2