Muaro Jambi (The Largest BuddhistTemple Complex in Asia) - part 2

Tinggi Temple, Muaro Jambi

Back on bike, towards Tinggi Temple (Tinggi means high), located east side of Gumpung Temple, not far, approximately 300 meters away. There is a large tree in the yard, making the landscape more exotic. The height position  of the surface of land at Tinggi Temple area  is approximately one meter higher than the surrounding ground level, and bounded by a fence made of red brick (like on Gumpung Temple), so the ground outside the fence is lower than the surface of the ground in the fencing. It’s different with Gumpung Temple, the ground outside and inside is relatively the same.

Tinggi temple occupies an area of 2.92 hectares. There is one main building called Tinggi Temple, and there are six support buildings. Tinggi temple was restored in 1980 – 1982 so that we can enjoy the form today. The main building or what is known as Tinggi Temple has an area of 16 X 16 square meters, with a height of 7.6 meters. Meaning that the highest Temple among the others. The other buildings spread around  Tinggi Temple. There is a fairly large supporting building, located on the north side, the bottom of the building or the foundation looks so clear and strong, but at the top just stay composed of red brick ruins mounting, did not show a clear form. There is also a stupa-shaped building as high as adults, located next to the left and right of Tinggi Temple, but these two stupa have different design, which is a round shape like a stupa at Borobudur, and the other shaped just like box and a little fatter and taller.

Tinggi Temple, Muaro Jambi

 

When I arrived at Tinggi Temple, a lot of people here, more than the one I met at Gumpung Temple, they even climb up to the top of the temple. I wonder why there is no prohibition stepped temple?, Whereas the red brick is fragile, not as strong as stone as what we may see at Borobudur Temple. Besides, the age of the Temple that considered more than 1000 years certainly increased the vulnerability. Mostly they just look around and take pictures, and some have only resting and lie on the grass at backyard of the Temple. The atmosphere is cozy, shaded by large trees outside the fence. Large trees were part of the forest that surrounds the complex of Muaro Jambi Temple.

Tinggi Temple and little Stupa

Tinggi Temple, Muaro Jambi

 

I cannot wait until the Temple is empty, because they come and go. Perhaps because it is clearly Tinggi Temple shape is more beautiful, more varied, not as rigid as Gumpung Temple. So it has more attraction for visitors. I immediately took position and photographing Tinggi Temple from various angles, until I was satisfied. I won’t forget the support Temple, the one that widest and mounting pile of red bricks.   Then I shifted towards the north, towards the Tinggi Temple 1 that no longer high (Tinggi).

There is no detailed explanation about Tinggi Temple 1. How wide the main building, ancillary buildings, total area of its area, when restored, and so forth. Only informed that the results of the research,  based on the shape of red brick on the inside, concluded that this temple has experienced expansion, just like Tinggi Temple at its side. I think the height of Tinggi Temple 1 is slightly higher than adults, the size of the area is less than Tinggi Temple, and the shape is simple, a rectangular shape. There is a little building in front and form the stairs as the entrance to the Temple buildings.  I found another form of building, even smaller, at the east side of the main building, which is now remaining base, covering a small area. As well as another one adjacent to the east, smaller, rectangular, who now even just a sort of fence as high as approximately 20 cm. and inside the fence filled with sand, no floor of red brick.



Tinggi 1 Temple, Muaro Jambi

Broken Brick at Tinggi Temple 1

This temple is not so high, and there is ladder at eastern side, which up to the upper surface of the temple, causing people who visit tend to climb up to the top of the temple, and step on the floor or the top of the temple. As I see it this time. I am concerned about the situation, once again because of this red brick is fragile, not as strong as stone.  And sure enough, I found a red brick shards at one end of the ladder, lying on the ground. Seeing the former fracture, and fragments, obviously just occurred. I imagine what just happened, someone who is not careful when up or down the stairs, causing the red brick broke and fell, and he ignored it. How can we possibly have this bad attitude towards heritage?. I picked up pieces of red brick, and put it again in position, he would fall again if anyone stepped on or nudged, it may even be broken again into smaller pieces. Hopefully it does not happen.

 

Back on bike, towards Batu Kembar Temple or “the Twin Stone Temple”.  At an intersection, mounted signposts, in front of two empty stalls, maybe it stalls abandoned. To the left there is the Astano Temple, is 1.1 km away. Sialang Temple, is 1.8 km away. Pondok Duren, a plantation site about 800 meters. I have not enough time to visit all places, I decided to opt into the right direction, written on signposts, there is a twin temple stone within 232 meters, and an ancient canal within 800 meters. Down the road that has been cemented width of approximately 1.5 meters. Quite comfortable, if I have enough time, I prefer to walk.

OTW Batu Kembar Temple

Batu Kembar Temple, Muaro Jambi

 

Batu Kembar temples surrounded by canals that still looks firm, but there was no water that flooded it. Also there is barbed wire. On inner side of the canal looks red brick mixed with soil, seems like this canal walls made of red brick. I'm look around the temple site with cycling, and stopped in front of the entrance to the Twin Temple Stone. I call the entrance because there is space width of approximately 1 meter that not hindered by barbed wire. This is the Batu Kembar Temple, named so perhaps because there are three buildings that looks almost the same, and there is one more brick ruins that have no longer visible shape. Also there is the small size floor or base that likely there is a building on it. In general, this temple is much simpler form than the two temples that have been seen before. Not too high, just a square, it has narrowed section so as to form a pyramid, plus the additional building steps. Brick color was already dark and dull. But the red brick fence that surrounds it still looks sturdy and nice shape.

The sun is already leaning towards the west, the air was hot and humid, my little towel has been too wet  as sweat continued to pour out of my body. Lucky me, in front of the entrance of Batu Kembar Temple, there are two stalls, or rather I call the plot. Small wooden rods support the roof is made of plastic just to shelter from sun and rain. It is disharmony with the temple building. In general plot is of course disturbing the aesthetic of the site. But I am grateful because I can enjoy the fresh squeezed sugarcane juice plus ice, so freshening. I ordered another glass, enough to overcome thirst.

The Management of  Muaro Jambi temple is need to think about the needs of visitors. Anyone who is cycling, or walk up here, would be tired and thirsty. Because of the distance is quite far, and the air is hot and humid. If there are resting places and representative stalls, with a design that harmoniously to the surrounding environment, it will certainly add to the beauty, plus provide comfort for visitors. In addition of course, to benefit the local communities who manage the stalls.

Ancient Canal, Muaro Jambi

 

Satisfied enjoy the juice of sugar cane, I continued to walk towards the ancient canal which passes not far from this stall. I left the bike, the stall keeper said safe. Approximately 100 meters eastward stall, I found the canal, there is a  staircase made of wood down the slopes of the canal, about 4 meters deep. Does not look like a canal or artificial river, canal walls filled with shrubs and trees, and the canal itself filled with water hyacinths. I can’t see any water flow there. Canal width may be about 7 or 8 meters. I think it's spectacular. At that time, with a simple technology, humans have thought to build a canal that is sufficiently deep and wide. I don’t know how many kilometers in length, and how long were made, and how much manpower to do it. As a comparison, the east flood canal in Jakarta, had been talked, plan, and work it about many years ago, newly accomplished in the era of Jokowi, and even then with the help of today's technology, using heavy equipment etc. and at a cost that is fantastic. Thus, the temple complex of Muaro Jambi which covers more than 200 square kilometers, is supported by canals, is a remarkable achievement of this nation.

A bit longer I dwell here, contemplate and imagine the atmosphere of the past, the boats crossing the canal, stop, someone got off the boat up the canal wall and towards the temple to worship, how calm…. I immediately left the canal, take a bike, and do not forget to pay fresh sugarcane juice. I stopped briefly, and photographing signs and information boards installed in front of the Kembar Batu Temple. Clearly these two objects unkempt, dull, white base color was even blackened. And information boards made of white tarpaulin, even had chipped on top of it. Sad to see… Especially if what stall keeper said is true, many foreign tourists who visit here. What about the minds of the tourists there?, Of this nation who are not good at taking care of. In fact, we insist on asking Unesco, making this Muaro Jambi Temple Complex as a world cultural heritage.

Prajnaparamita statue

Makara

official, explain about the site plan

ceramics from ancient China

 

 Back to bike again, leave Kembar Batu Temple toward the Museum, a place where ancient goods and stuffs are kept, discovered during the excavation of the temples. This museum was cramped by children, teenagers and mothers who mixed together. They are cool to listen to museum officials. Middle-aged man is seriously tells the history of the temple of Muaro Jambi, pointing to a large map, a site plan of the temple complex. I am more focused to see the various relics are exhibited. There were glassware, pottery and ceramics are made from patterned ancient Chinese, who are no longer perfect. There were Makara, and Arca, including the statue of Prajnaparamita which has no head. Gadjah Arca. Arca Gadjah Singha, are no longer intact, was found in Gedong II. Some Padmasana (holder Arca). Some small stone pieces, from white andesite stone, it appears there beside ornament. There is a stone pedestal, and Padmasana stone shaped like a stone pedestal but with a much larger size. Everything is made of andesite stone, but there are also Padmasana made of brick.

I am interested in some Padma stone, shaped like a mortar or in Java as a place to pound rice that made of wood. Padma stone is found in Gedong I in 1998. At the outer edge there is a carving or sculpture petal lotus flower (lotus). It turns out this thing is not as rice pestle, as I'd thought. Based on the information available, the object is associated with Buddhist ritual activities.

Little Stupa

 

In front of the museum, there are 6 pieces small stupa, which is made of brick, neatly arranged, three stupas on the left and the rest on the right. Some bigger stupas are arranged in a row following the BRC fence surrounding a land, which is still in the process of excavation. This land is protected by pavilion building, this may important findings but is still in the research process, so it should be fenced to avoid damage to the site.

 

An inscription signed by President Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono, displayed in front of the museum. Inscription made of black granite, it is in order to officially launch the establishment of Muara Jambi Temple Complex, as an integrated tourism area of history, on 22 September 2011.

Muaro Jambi, become more important after the findings and the historical study by experts. Excavation and research continues to be done may be able to change our understanding of history of the archipelago. To this day the experts from UI (University of Indonesia) which has been researching the area Muaro Jambi Temple COmplex, believes that this is where the first center of Srivijaya Kingdom.

While other studies in the coastal river of Musi, also believes that the first center of Srivijaya kingdom was there.

Based on historical records, the news from the Arab country, stating that the center of the Kingdom of Srivijaya was in Kampar river estuary, near the Muara Takus, Riau Province, Sumatera, Indonesia. Inscription of Kedukan Bukit also indicate this.

Researcher from Europe even more extreme, stating that the center of the Kingdom of Srivijaya was in Thailand, precisely in Ch'aiya. The reason is there are more prevalent in the ancient relics compare to the Palembang. Also because of the similarity of a name of a hill that is sivic'ai, phonetically similar to Sriwijaya. Thailand is so fierce this claim, to the extent that the name of the new International Airport in Bankok named Swarnabhumi, while we understand Swarnabhumi is another name of mainland Sumatra formerly known as Sriwijaya.

Other expert say that the center of the kingdom of Srivijaya was originally on the east coast of Malaysia. Do Malaysia Will follow Thailand ? Claiming that Sriwijaya Kingdom is in Malaysia ? not enough batik, wayang, Pendet and reog are in the claims…

Hopefully, historians and archaeologists are active in researching heritage sites of Srivijaya Kingdom. So we were able to prove to the world, Srivijaya was Archipelago, is Indonesia. The founders of this Nation have made historical grandeur of Srivijaya and Majapahit as a reference of the Unitary of the Republic of Indonesia.