Muaro Jambi (The Largest Buddhist Temple Complex in Asia) - part 1

Muaro Jambi Temple Complex, Sumatera, Indonesia

Gumpung Temple, Muaro Jambi (google earth)

Here is the largest Buddhist Temple complex in Asia.  The total area is approximately 260 square kilometers. It is much broader than in the world's largest Buddhist Temple, Borobudur Temple at Magelang, city, Central Java, Indonesia. Muaro Jambi Temple complex lay parallel to the river Batanghari. Historians associated this Buddhist Temple to Srivijaya Empire. Some archeologist mentions that here is the location of the center of Sriwijaya Empire,   while other experts say this is a relic of the ancient Malay kingdom.

Gumpung Temple, Muaro Jambi

 

Gumpung Temple, Muaro Jambi

You, who love traveling, would be familiar with the name of Muaro Jambi Temple. And for the travelers visiting this Temple complex is a must for the cultural heritage of this archipelago. Muaro Jambi is still a mystery, and continues to be a matter of study by historians and archeologist. Muaro Jambi Temple is unique. Most of us, if imagined an ancient Temple, then reflected ancient buildings made of stone structure, black, large, and artistic. As well as Borobudur Temple, Prambanan Temple, Singosari Temple or other Temples that are scattered in the Land Java. That once we learned during school.

Gumpung Temple, Muaro Jambi

Gumpung Temple, Muaro Jambi

Muaro Jambi Temple, first reported by FC Crooke, a naval officer in UK. When he came to this area, he saw the ruins of the building and found the statue depicting Buddha statue. While Gumpung Temple, one of the Temple at the complex of Muaro Jambi Temple, called in 1937 in a report by FM Schnitger, a Dutchman. He added that the names of the new Temple are Temple of Gumpung, Tinggi, Bukit Perak, Gudang Garem, Gedong I and II. Schenitger is the first to connect the enshrinement of Muaro Jambi with the Malay kingdoms (Mo-Lo-Yeu). As mentioned in Chinese texts from XVII century. While the results of research conducted by the Ministry of Education and Culture in 1954, states that the region is linked to the ancient Sriwijaya kingdom. Researchers from the University of Indonesia even believe this is where the first center of Srivijaya kingdom.

Gumpung Temple, Muaro Jambi

Temples in Muaro Jambi, entirely built with red brick structure, leaving a few statues called Makara, and there is no relief on the walls. The shape seems rigid, most of them just like a cube-shaped box, and almost entirely made of red brick.

Unfortunately I only had 2 hours to stay on location, because my flight schedule to Jakarta is tight. So, I only visit some of them.

Muaro Jambi Temple is just 26 km from the city of Jambi, taken less than one hour by car. Muaro Jambi ­­­­­­­­is the name of the village, where the temple complex is located. And the other temples located at Kemingking Dalam village and also at Danau Lamo (lake of lamo)  – lamo is old. They are located not far from the river Batanghari. That is the typical of ancient kingdoms in the archipelago, always close to the river or the sea, because the waterway is the main transportation lines.

Banner of Festival

After driving thru the bridge that crossing the wide Batang Hari river, I saw a lot of banners reading FCMJ, Indar my friend explained, it stands for Festival Candi Muaro Jambi (Muaro Jambi Temple Festival), which will be held tomorrow,  Sunday. Waw, certainly tomorrow will be crowded at all… I thought. Even now already busy and full of people I think, because certainly need preparation by the organizers and participants of the festival. "The activities are exhibitions, fairs and local arts performances", Indar added. And today is Saturday, a day off, certainly many people take their vacation to visit the temple.

Banners continued to appear every few meters, and the closer the distance when the car turn to the right, entering a relatively narrow road, to the location of  Muaro Jambi Temple complex. And sure enough, when entering the parking area is quite spacious, and a lot of cars parked there.

I rushed down, and walk follows the paved road which width of the road is approximately 2 meters. Then headed to the check point and pay entrance ticket. Only 10 thousand rupiah (less than 1 USD), including car parking fees, very cheap. Near the check point, towards the location of the temple, standing houses, they sell various goods and trinkets as souvenirs, there are also food stalls. I see in front of houses lined up dozens or even hundreds of bicycles, young children offers me bicycle rental, "10 thousand Pak, the location is quite far, the distance between the temple up to 2 km," he said. “Oh yes, this is good”, I said, and I take the bike and pay rent directly in front.

Since the temple complex open to public, it has brought blessing for the local people. That should have been the tourism industry, bringing direct economic benefits for the local people. Stalls, souvenir shop and bicycle rental help and facilitate visitors, as well as benefit the people who rely on the transaction.

Gumpung Tempel, Muaro Jambi

I kept on biking, until arrived at a large area, I see contrasting scenery, dominating by red color. An object, or rather the building, like a cube in the middle of the vast land, surrounded by a short fence, made of red brick, but a fence that also composed of brick is no longer red in color, a little black and dull. I immediately parked my bike near it, and prepare my camera. This is Gumpung Temple, which is the largest among the others. There are few visitors to be near the temple, I waited until they went, I saw a look around. Apparently, a lot of cars parked here, sad to see it, too close to the temple, this location should be sterilized from motor vehicles. I also saw a lot of tents, seemed newly established due to the Festival which will be held tomorrow. Also some stage, all located within the area of ​​the temple site, some stalls are also there. People passing by, busy with tents and a stage, crowded at all.

stalls and bicycle rental

Tent and bicycle rental

If this festival is just an exhibition of some products, and art performances which tend to make a crowd and party, I think the venue is should not at this sacred place. Besides, because I do not think this is not fit venue, the presence of people who are too many would have potency to damage the site, or at least this festive will leave the trash.

At outer fence of Gumpung Temple

 

Finally, people walk away from Gumpung Temple. I immediately approached and photographed from various angles. The height of Gumpung Temple is approximately 3 times adults man. Simple shape, there is an additional form of stairs at the front of the building, at the end of the stairs to the left there is Makara, the Statue of guard, the right side should also Makara, but is now housed in the Museum, which is located not far from the location of the Gumpung Temple. The size of the area of Gumpung is about 17.9 m X 17.3 m, facing towards the east. In front of the temple, or eastern side of the building there are also scars which is now only a part of the base and the floor alone, covering an area of 9.85 m X 9.75 m. and there are two holes in the middle and distance between the two holes is about  two meters, parallel  to Gumpung Temple. It seems that the hole is like a base of wood, or pile foundation. Perhaps, when the building was complete, there is no brick structure which formed a building, but only a sort of pavilion buildings with wooden structures.

Makara at Gumpung Temple

 

 (About Makara, is a guard placed at the front entrance of the temple. In the mythology illustrate mixed elements such as Garuda animals, elephants, fish and snakes. In addition to the  Gumpung Temple, Makara is also found in Candi Kedaton, 2011. With a little different, is an illustration of an animal mythology that lives in water, which has the characteristic with a trunk and tusks that comes out of the lower jaw. The shape of this kind is often referred to as Gajahmina. Physically these traits disguised as a decorative pattern flora like tendrils and leaves. Makara at the gate of Kedaton temple complex, has floral vaguely on the trunk and tusks. Other Ornamental is dragon engraved on the inside of the mouth and the other Makara has sculptured monkey. The interesting one from Makara gate of Kedaton temple complex is an carved inscriptions written in ancient Javanese letters  “Kadiri kuadrat”  read as "mpu paramursita kusuma")

 Gumpung temple has a large yard, and is surrounded by a fence which is made of red brick. Beyond the fence is an empty land or yard, and in the yard there is a kind of space that now remain fence only. Next to the south, there is a second building that now just left floor mat.  Then there is a red brick fence again, the position surrounding the entire complex of building Gumpung Temple complex. The outer edge of this vast land is about 150 m X 155 m, forming a square. The lowest fence is about the knees of adults, and width of the fence is approximately 60 cm. while the corner section is much higher and wider, those other parts that form a kind of ladder.

black Stone

 

There is one thing in this Gumpung temple that very interesting, at one corner, precisely on the north front (east), there is a black stone with a size large enough, tucked between red brick structure. At first glance it is not visible, as it forms the elbow, and the color is dull, so matching to the color of red bricks that are already blackened and dull. But if the stone is carefully observed, it would attract attention and make us wonder why black stone tuck there?, Let alone in the corner, thus forming the elbow, and is located at the bottom. It seemed this was not accidental, but deliberately put there and purposeful. The whole structure of the building is made of red brick, just makara made of stone. Unfortunately there is no explanation of this fact. I do not find the discussion on this matter from various books I read, nor from information spread across the internet.

At eastern part, right in front of the temple there is a building of gate, which is now remain the basic structure. And in front of it - at east direction - there is an entrance or gate, across the inner and outer fences, made of red brick structure form a staircase, climbing and descending the red brick wall or fence leading to the inside. At the left and right side was also formed red brick structure forming to the left and to the right.

Based on information contained in the board which is placed in front of the temple, it is known that inscriptions of gold had discovered in the Gumpung Temple. From this inscription allegedly Gumpung Temple was built between 9-10 AD. And associated with Buddhism. Prajnaparamita statue is also found here, and this is strengthening the allegation that the temple is associated with Buddhism.

(Arca Prajnaparamita found in East Java associated with Ken Dedes, the wife of Ken Arok, the founder of the kingdom of Singosari).

There is another thing that makes me sad, a lot of rubbish thrown away by visitors. There is even a used plastic drinking water with a straw is placed just above the red brick, temple floor. I picked it up and carry it until I found the trash. But, it’s hard to find the trash here. Something that must be thinks about by the management of the temple.

In excavation process

In  excavation process

 

On the north side, outside the Gumpung Temple area, I see there are sites that seemed to be in the process of excavation, the area is quite wide and bounded by a barbed wire fence. There is no information boards installed there, it looks like the site has long been explored and didn’t continued. Bricks from excavations those still intact are stacked at north side. There is a quite long trench as an impact of excavations processes, from north to south, is approximately as deep as 1-2 meters. I see red brick foundation trench at west side, next to it, red brick structure revealed. Just like a base of the building, , the shape is no longer straight, curved down as if it would hold weight on it. Crumbling bricks stacked on one side. Above the curved down bricks, soil and bricks mixed and shattered into small pieces. Can you imagine how hard the archeologists reconstruct the temples that have been fought for hundreds of years buried in the ground and destroyed?. Hopefully visitors will be able to take care of everything inside the complex, and do not damage these temples.

Next to read : Muaro Jambi (The Largest Temple Complex in Asia) - part 2